Japan – Episode 5 (Kyoto)

One would think the transit system in Kyoto would be much easier than the Tokyo transit system. In Kyoto, there are fewer lines, fewer people and the general atmosphere feels much more laid back. Even so, we still can’t navigate our way around. Only today did we finally figure out where we live. Most street signs are not in English so thankfully our GPS phones can help guide the way a little bit. So this morning, after roughly 30 minutes, .25 miles walking, we found a breakfast spot that is only supposed to be 2 blocks away. We had hoped to gather ourselves over coffee and pastries but this bakery did not have a sitting area so we ate standing on the side of the road like messy foreigners.

A taxi then took us to Kinkaku-Ji temple aka the Golden Pavilion. Built in 1397, This temple supposedly houses the remains of the founder of Buddism, Sakyamuni. The temple was burnt down in 1950 and restored again in 1955. While crowded with tourists, the placid, carp filled pond was a reflection of peacefulness and beauty.

After Kinkaku-Ji, we successfully got on a city bus and headed up Ginkaku-Ji aka the Silver Pavilion. This was David’s favorite temple of the day. It was built on 1489 and has amazing manicured gardens and zen sand gardens that are clearly meticulously designed and maintained to optimize the melding of architecture and natural beauty. Gnarled bonsai trees and colorful oaks surrounded a path that led up to a wonderful overview of the grounds and city.

We then headed south and walked along the Philosopher’s Path, named after Kyoto professor whose zen meditation practice included a daily stroll on this route. Lucky for us, the path was not busy. There were locals taking their daily walks, a man along the side of the path doing an oil painting, and gently flowing streams that runs parallel to the stone walkway. We can upon an area that had 6-7 cats that were frolicking and playing with another. We named this “Meow Village.”

As the Philosopher’s Walk ended, we continued on to Nanzen-Ji Temple. It was once a villa of the retired Emperor Kameyama, but was converted to a zen temple in 1291. In terms of size, this temple was the most grand. The enormous Sanmon Gate had tree sized support structures and dominated the temple grounds with its classically Japanese roof jutting high into the sky. There was so much area to walk and once again, ornate architecture and landscapes were abundant.

For dinner, we went to Owariya, a noodle restaurant that opened in 1465. It was patronized by the Emperor’s family and monks when Kyoto was the Capitol. We sat somewhat uncomfortably cross legged but enjoyably classic tatami room. The low slung table was filled with tea, sake, fish cakes, donburi and udon noodle soup. All very delicious! We are calling it an early tonight and will be prepared to hit the ground running tomorrow to see more that Kyoto has to offer. Thanks for checking in!