Japan – Episode 5 (Kyoto)

One would think the transit system in Kyoto would be much easier than the Tokyo transit system. In Kyoto, there are fewer lines, fewer people and the general atmosphere feels much more laid back. Even so, we still can’t navigate our way around. Only today did we finally figure out where we live. Most street signs are not in English so thankfully our GPS phones can help guide the way a little bit. So this morning, after roughly 30 minutes, .25 miles walking, we found a breakfast spot that is only supposed to be 2 blocks away. We had hoped to gather ourselves over coffee and pastries but this bakery did not have a sitting area so we ate standing on the side of the road like messy foreigners.

A taxi then took us to Kinkaku-Ji temple aka the Golden Pavilion. Built in 1397, This temple supposedly houses the remains of the founder of Buddism, Sakyamuni. The temple was burnt down in 1950 and restored again in 1955. While crowded with tourists, the placid, carp filled pond was a reflection of peacefulness and beauty.

After Kinkaku-Ji, we successfully got on a city bus and headed up Ginkaku-Ji aka the Silver Pavilion. This was David’s favorite temple of the day. It was built on 1489 and has amazing manicured gardens and zen sand gardens that are clearly meticulously designed and maintained to optimize the melding of architecture and natural beauty. Gnarled bonsai trees and colorful oaks surrounded a path that led up to a wonderful overview of the grounds and city.

We then headed south and walked along the Philosopher’s Path, named after Kyoto professor whose zen meditation practice included a daily stroll on this route. Lucky for us, the path was not busy. There were locals taking their daily walks, a man along the side of the path doing an oil painting, and gently flowing streams that runs parallel to the stone walkway. We can upon an area that had 6-7 cats that were frolicking and playing with another. We named this “Meow Village.”

As the Philosopher’s Walk ended, we continued on to Nanzen-Ji Temple. It was once a villa of the retired Emperor Kameyama, but was converted to a zen temple in 1291. In terms of size, this temple was the most grand. The enormous Sanmon Gate had tree sized support structures and dominated the temple grounds with its classically Japanese roof jutting high into the sky. There was so much area to walk and once again, ornate architecture and landscapes were abundant.

For dinner, we went to Owariya, a noodle restaurant that opened in 1465. It was patronized by the Emperor’s family and monks when Kyoto was the Capitol. We sat somewhat uncomfortably cross legged but enjoyably classic tatami room. The low slung table was filled with tea, sake, fish cakes, donburi and udon noodle soup. All very delicious! We are calling it an early tonight and will be prepared to hit the ground running tomorrow to see more that Kyoto has to offer. Thanks for checking in!

Japan – Episode 4 (Kyoto)

At a rough shod wooden table, drinking tea and Kirin beer, chill electronic tunes are bouncing off the concrete ceiling and colliding with our sore feet, full bellies and refreshed eyes.

It was a bullet train of 200kms an hour that took us across a sweeping view of Mt. Fuji, snow dusted fields abutting fall colored landscapes and a confusing arrival at a comparatively sleepy Kyoto station.

Our day began before this ride with a second consecutive visit to a French bakery, a nice walk around the Daikanayama neighborhood and a pack-laden 20 minute walk to Shibuya station after a French press fueled lazy morning goodbye to our Meguro flat.

From Shibuya station to our room in Kyoto it was a 3 hour journey. We are happy with our room which was the most suspect of places we’d booked based on pictures that somewhat conflicted with glowing AirBnB reviews. Reality lent itself more to the reviews. We gathered ourselves at the room and then set out for the Nishiki market. A busy 5pm Sunday evening crowd milled about the stands strewn well over a mile, offering knives, ceramics, clothes and all manner of knick-knack and food. We then lost tourist wandered our way to Jyunidanya shabu shabu and enjoyed a quality over quantity beef hot pot meal.

Upon leaving, we decided to walk home and I directed us towards the wrong iphone coordinates. This turned a 1.5 mile walk into a 3 mile day closer. Chea turned it into a game of beating our estimated time home though and it was a great end to our arrival in Kyoto. We are excited to see Kyoto in the full light of day and to catch the end of the Broncos game when we awake!